Other Common Names:
Rose-breasted Cockatoo and the Rose Cockatoo
Galahs are gorgeous, gregarious birds native to Australia and the South Pacific Islands. Galahs are found across the entire continent of Australia, other than in arid regions. Galahs live in large flocks in timbered habitats that have an ample water source.
Galahs (or Red-breasted Cockatoos) have a rosy-pink head with a lighter pink crest. The deeper pink is also seen on the neck, underparts and under-tail. They have a grey back and wings, with a whitish edge. Soft light pink feathers also grace the tip of the tail. Galahs have pearlish-white, hooked beaks.
The Galah can be considered a medium sized bird with its’ body length being approximately 35 cm (14 inches) and with a weight of between 300 – 400 grams (0.7 – 0.8 pounds).
Male Galahs have a wingspan of 26 to 28 cms (14 inches) and females 25 – 28 cms (9.8 – 11 inches).
The average lifespan of a Galah is between 50 and 80 years, so this must be taken into consideration if/when looking to purchase one as a pet.
Galahs are intelligent, acrobatic, affection and entertaining birds and seem to have all the intrinsic qualities that make them ideal family pets. Galahs enjoy human contact and love to spend time playing with their owners. Galahs form very strong bonds with their owners and enjoy physical contact such as scratching under the wings, just behind their crests and under their beaks.
Galahs thrive on attention but also enjoy keeping themselves amused with toys and puzzles. Galahs are easy to train, needing only time, patience and love in order to achieve amazing feats. They can be trained to mimic human speech and whistling amongst other sounds and noises. Galahs can be trained to ‘talk’, picking up words and whole phrases. Male Galahs seem to learn to mimic a little sooner, a little easier and a little more fluently than their female counterparts.
Galahs often take favourably to all members of the family making them ideal to have around the house. Keep in mind though that these quirky birds get bored easily so must be kept entertained. Supply your Galah with ample, colourful toys made of wood and robust, non-toxic materials in order to keep their busy minds entertained.
Galahs emit a high pitched screech in the wild, communicating from bird to bird. They are very socially active birds and can become a screeching mob when a flock flies overhead or lands. When kept as pets Galahs tend to be much quieter, possibly only screeching at dawn and dusk, and in response to hearing other birds singing outside (or inside ie. another pet bird)
In the wild Galahs fly in huge flocks and are very vocal, shrieking and calling out while performing aerial feats. They swerve and swoop, duck and spiral, matching their quirky, cheeky personalities. Being a flock bird, Galahs crave and need company.
Australians use the term ‘Galah’ as slang to call someone a fool, clown or a joker. These birds reflect that description perfectly as they are energetic, active, precocious and raucous in personality.
Galahs are quirky, curious birds ...
What to feed Galahs (Red-breasted Cockatoos)
FOOD FOR GALAHS
In the wild, Galahs feed mostly on the ground and their diet would include seeds of grasses and cultivated crops. In some areas of Australia, Galahs are considered an agricultural pest. They’ve been known to travel great distances to find palatable food sources.
An ideal diet for your pet Galah includes a mix of:
*Green shoots *leaf buds *roots *insects and their larvae *wheat *hulled oats *striped sunflower seeds *millet *sprouted seeds *cooked brown rice *grains *rice *wheat * pasta *green peas *broccoli *spinach *celery *zucchini *tomatoes *cucumbers *cabbage *cooked white potato *red and green capsicum *cauliflower *cooked sweet potato *cooked yams *butternut and acorn squash *carrots *pumpkin *dandelion greens *mustard greens *beet greens *small amounts of corn *passionfruit *berries *oranges *apples *cherries *cantaloupe *strawberries *peaches *nectarines *apricots *pears *bananas *plums *mango *figs *pomegranates *kiwi fruit
Foods to Avoid
*Iceberg lettuce *caffeine *avocado *parley *black sunflower seeds
Keep fresh water plentiful.
Galahs are known to over-eat, particularly if bored, so keep a check on their weight.
Supplements
Vitamin and mineral supplements can be added to the Galah’s feed and/or water, particularly if the Galah’s diet consists predominantly of seed only.
Provide your pet Galah with a cuttlebone/cuttlefish and/or mineral block as this keeps the Galah’s beak trimmed to prevent beak over-growth, and at the same time provides the bird with calcium.
Housing Your Galah - Red-breasted cockatoo cage
Housing
Galahs feel most comfortable in well kept and maintained enclosures. When keeping a Galah as a pet ensure that its’ cage is adequate for optimum well-being. It needs to be practical and comfortable and as large as you can possibly make it. Make sure there is enough room to house toys, perches, water and feed containers. Galahs love to move around and spread their wings. Ensure the cage is light and airy and kept clean with litter removed daily.
Place feed and water containers away from areas where the bird is likely to do its’ droppings (ie. under perches) and change water regularly; twice a day being ideal.
Keep fresh foods such as green vegetables and fruit separate from dry foods such as seeds and grains.
Galahs are very social birds and are able to be housed with other parrots.
Galahs are comfortable at the same temperature that humans are, although they do not adapt to temperature fluctuations as well as we do. In captivity, try to keep the temperature at around 27 to 32 C (80 – 90 F).
Galahs enjoy their freedom and like to spend stretches of time out of their cages.
Toys
If a Galah becomes bored it will start pulling out and mutilating their feathers. Therefore a variety of toys needs to be introduced into the Galah’s cage.
Toys for the Galah are best robust and strong as their smallish beaks are very powerful and sharp.
Colourful hanging and foot toys and knotted ropes are ideal. Rotate different toys to keep the Galah inquisitive and entertained.
Galahs love to swing and hang upside down, so if room allows, place a swing in the Galah’s cage.
With enough toys in their cage to keep them amused, Galahs are happy to spend time alone. They are quite independent birds and generally have a happy disposition.
A cuttlefish and/or mineral block should be placed in the cage in order for the Galah to receive calcium as well as keeps their beaks trimmed.
Perches
Perches not only give your birds exercise, but allow birds to easily move around. Ensure that there are at least two perches at different heights. Make sure that perches are placed in such a way that droppings and the bird’s feathers and tail do not fall into or come into contact with their drinking and bathwater containers.
Bathing
Allowing a Galah to bathe is essential. Birds living in the wild live with weather conditions such as rain, which facilitates the natural bathing of feathers.
Birds kept indoors are exposed to artificial conditions and the atmosphere inside is generally drier compared to outside. Regular bathing ensure that feathers are kept clean.
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Joanne
Sacred Scribes
Cocky, White Cockatoo, Great Sulphur Crested Cockatoo
Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are an Australian native bird which can readily be seen throughout Australia, sometimes in huge flocks of hundreds, much to the chagrin of grain and wheat farmers. Sulphur Crested Cockatoos live in dry forests, mangroves, bushlands, rain forests and the ‘outback’ of Australia. The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo also inhabits the South Pacific, The Philippines, New Guinea, Indonesia and New Zealand.
The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo is a member of the Psittacidoae parrot family. As its’ name suggests, the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo is a pure white bird with a prominent, vibrant yellow crest which it is able to move in response to its emotions. It also has yellow feathers on the under-side of the wings and around the eyes.
The Cockatoo can be considered a rather large bird with a body length from between 45 to 50 cms (17 to 20 inches). The adult male generally weighs from 815 to 920 grams (1.7 to 2 pounds) and the adult female bird from 845 to 975 grams (1 to 2 pounds).
The Cockatoo has a very powerful beak which is large, curved and pointed downwards, and is strong enough to crack open nuts and kernels. Its’ beak is dark grey to black, sometimes with white lines or flecks.
The sex of a Cockatoo is difficult to distinguish, particularly when they are young as they are virtually identical other than the colours of their eyes. The adult female has a slightly lighter reddish-brown iris, and the male adult has an all-black or very dark brown iris.
The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo has an extremely long life-span with some living for 80 years or more. Most live between 40 to 70 years so a long-term commitment is necessary if considering one as a pet.
In the wild the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo inhabit the same place all year round. They live in heavily-treed areas, sometimes very close to human settlements. They are known to be destructive though, damaging and destroying wood on verandahs, fences and whatever else they take a fancy to. Their powerful beaks are quick to deface and destroy at will. (Many people have made the mistake of luring in and feeding wild Cockies on their balconies, verandahs and outdoor areas, only to find in time that if the growing population of Cockatoos are not fed regularly or on demand they’ll protest loudly whilst destroying any/all wooden structures, including the house if made of wood - a mistake I made many years ago!)
Cockatoos have become much loved pets – although anyone who has ever owned one of these majestic and quirky birds will know that Cockatoos are much more than just pets. They are intelligent companions who are inquisitive and affectionate, and have quite distinct, unique personalities. Cockatoos are an endless source of entertainment and amusement for their owners, their family and visitors. Having a Cockatoo in the family can be a very rewarding experience as Cockies enjoy spending time with their humans.
Cockatoos are affectionate, friendly, funny and endearing. They love a scratch and generally all pet cockatoos appreciate a cuddle and enjoy being held. The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo needs lots of attention and crave time with their owner (although most often they seem to assume that they are the owner). They form exceptionally strong bonds with their owners and express genuine love, joy and devotion to them. Cockatoos can be extremely affectionate towards those they like - but if they have an aversion to someone – Look Out! Cockatoos are not necessarily a ‘one person’ pet, although some can show a preference for some people over others. And this can change on a whim.
Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are easy to train and most prove to be enthusiastic students who pick up new tricks quickly and thoroughly. Time training, patience, unconditional love and practice are required.
Many Cockatoos are able to mimic fluently and are easy to teach to ‘talk’, whether it be single words or whole phrases. They are also able to mimic human whistling, other birds, inanimate sounds such as a door chime or closing door, music and even other animals such as dogs and cats (depending upon recurrent sounds the bird is surrounded by). Many are quick to learn to bob up and down and ‘dance’, flapping their wings and ‘singing’ along to music.
Cockatoos can be a great source of delight when happy, healthy and well behaved. But if a Cockatoo is neglected or raised without the required attention and training it can prove to be a bit of a disaster for all involved. They can be destructive, noisy, disruptive and aggressive. Cockatoos can be gregarious and noisy creatures who demand your attention (and that of the neighbourhood) with their high pitched screeching, particularly when distressed.
Cockatoos enjoy their freedom and prefer to spend the majority of their time out of their cage or enclosure. The Cockatoo, being an extremely intelligent bird, needs interaction, stimulation and entertainment and like to keep themselves active, otherwise they will become bored easily and may resort to feather-plucking or picking.
Feeding and Housing a pet Cockatoo
FOOD FOR COCKATOOS
An ideal diet for your pet Sulphur Crested Cockatoo includes a mix of:
*seeds *vegetables *roots *natural grasses *fresh fruits *hard-boiled eggs *grated cheese *green peas *broccoli *cauliflower *red and green capsicums *spinach *celery *zucchini *tomatoes *cucumbers *cooked white potatoes *small amounts of corn *berries *nuts *cooked legumes *yellow vegetables *fresh pellets
Foods to Avoid
*Iceberg lettuce *cabbage *caffeine *avocado *parsley *sunflower seeds
Supplements
Supplements can be added to the bird’s feed and/or water, particularly if the Cockatoo’s diet consists predominantly of seed only.
Provide your pet Cocky with a cuttlebone/cuttlefish or mineral block as this will keep the beak trimmed to prevent beak over-growth and at the same time provides much needed calcium.
Keep fresh water plentiful.
Housing
Cockatoos feel most comfortable in a well-cleaned and maintained enclosure. This entails the cleaning of water and feed bowls and containers, the wiping down of perches and toys, and litter trays or floor coverings removed and changed.
Cockatoos are very active and need a cage or aviary large enough to easily move around and spread their wings. It should be large enough to hold perches, toys, feed and water dishes, and possibly even a bird bath.
The cage or aviary should be placed in a bright area as Cockatoos need light and fresh air - but keep them protected from direct sunlight where they are unable to find adequate shade. Keep them away from cold draughts and high winds.
Perches
Perches are an important and essential part of the Cockatoo’s cage and there should be at least two suitably sized perches enabling the Cocky to easily move around at will.
Sulphur Crested Cockatoos require perches at different levels, preferably placed below eye level. Ensure that the perches are made of different materials and widths as this will help exercise the bird’s feet and keep the talon-like nails trimmed.
Make sure that perches are placed such that droppings and the bird’s feathers and tail do NOT fall into or come into contact with their drinking water and bathwater containers.
Toys
As Cockatoos need to entertain and amuse their inquisitive and intelligent minds, ensure that you provide your Cocky with an assortment of strong, robust toys. Fill its’ cage or aviary with toys and puzzles that it can dismantle. Colours are also important as they keep the bird engaged and interested.
Cockatoos tend to chew so ensure that you have plenty of wooden toys or even plain pieced of wood inside the enclosure.
Bathing
Allowing a Cockatoo to bathe is essential. Birds in the wild are in their natural surrounds and live with weather conditions such as rain which facilitates natural bathing of the feathers.
Birds kept indoors are exposed to artificial conditions and the atmosphere is generally drier compared to outside in the wild. Regular bathing is a must to ensure that feathers are kept clean and the Cockatoo’s body free from ‘dander’. (Dander is a white, powdery substance on the Cocky’s skin.)
Some Cockatoos are partial to a shower where they are able to spread their wings and crest under the running water. Other prefer a bath where they are able to dunk themselves at leisure.
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Joanne
Sacred Scribes
LIVESTOCK PROTECTORS - GUARDIAN DOGS
A guardian dog watches over livestock such as sheep, ducks, chickens and turkeys and the like, to protect them from predators. The breeds, training and management of guardian dogs is very different to the dogs used to guard homes and properties.
If you are considering buying a guardian dog you need to consider such things as the size of your property, the number of livestock and animals you have (or intend to have), the topography of your property and the likely number and type of predators in the area.
Each and every property is different and livestock needs also vary. A good Maremma guardian dog will look after a flock of 100 to 1000 sheep or chickens, depending upon the property. It is always best to ask the advice of a farmer with a successful guardian dog, then test your dog on a small number of animals. If the trial is successful you can expand it to cover all of your livestock.
Over the centuries there have been a number of dogs that have been bred for their ability to guard livestock. These breeds include the Maremma, the Anatolian Shepherd, the Central Asian Ovacharka and the Pyrenean Mountain dog. In Australia, the Maremma is the most common and popular guardian dog.
Once you have settled on the breed of your choice you must consider the age of the animal. You are able to buy a pre-trained dog from one to three years of age, or a pup from eight weeks of age. This is ideal if you wish your guardian dog to bond with your animals while they are young. At about a year old you can expect your guardian dog to be effective.
Ensure that the guardian dog is a full-blood guardian breed or a cross of two breeds to ensure the long-term success of your dog.
Guardian dogs generally live in the paddock with the livestock, full-time. Obviously they do not eat grass like most of the animals they guard, so require health care and treatment just like any other dog. They need appropriate food for their age and are able to be trained to eat from a self-feeder that dispenses dry dog food. This reduces the need to visit the paddock so frequently. Your guardian dog should be regularly wormed and vaccinated according to your vet’s recommendation, and de-sexed if you do not wish to breed with it.
Guardian dogs will also need to be protected from ticks if you live in a problem area, and need to be checked and treated for fleas and other parasites, just like any other dog.
Guardian dogs will most likely come into contact with wild dogs, wombats and other animals, so may come into contact with diseases such as mange and/or scabies. Breeds such as the Maremma may require the hair clipped from their feet in order to reduce grass-seed problems. In general though, guardian dogs will live long healthy lives in the paddocks amongst the livestock.
Just like other dogs, your guardian dog needs proper care and feeding, and in return they will give many years of faithful service.
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Joanne
Sacred Scribes
Running around paddocks can be great fun for your dog (or dogs), but during the summer months it can cause stress, pain and misery for your dog.
Grass seeds can lodge in the dog’s skin on all parts of the body, which causes painful problems such as abscesses and infections.
There are a number of common weeds that produce seeds that cause problems for dogs, including ‘barley grass’ and ‘corkscrew’, amongst others. Corkscrew grass is so named for its curly shapes, whilst barley grass seed is shaped like an arrow head. The shape of the grass seed allows them to penetrate the skin, then move underneath the skin. This means that the grass seeds can end up anywhere in the dog’s body.
Most commonly, the grass seeds will become infected and form an abscess under the skin, which may appear as a lump. Grass seeds commonly lodge in areas such as the feet, under the tail, between the toes, in the ears, eyes and genital areas. With dogs that have shaggy coats, grass seeds can lodge anywhere on the body.
When a grass seed is lodged beneath the dog’s skin it will most likely lick or bite the area where the grass seed entered and is lodged, and most often they break the skin leading to further infection.
Once your dog has a grass seed lodged under the skin it is important that you take it to your vet as it is crucial that the seed be removed.
Over the summer months, to prevent grass seeds becoming lodged in your dog’s skin, groom your dog at least every few days in order to remove any seeds that may be stuck in its coat. This is particularly important for long-coated breeds.
Check between your dog’s toes for grass seeds. A quick check at feeding time may prevent a painful abscess and subsequent vet visit and bill.
If your dog suffers frequently from grass seed problems it may be worth clipping all the fur off their feet during the summer months.
Another alternative is to buy seed-proof ‘booties’ for your dog to wear when out in the paddocks.
One way of combating the occurrence of grass seeds lodging in your dog’s skin is by reducing the number of grass seeds on your property. They can be mowed, slashed, grazed out or even poisoned prior to the grass going to seed. It is also worthwhile to keep your dog away from grassy areas during the seeding times.
Dealing with and preventing grass seeds from lodging in your dog’s coat and skin will reduce pain for your animal and the inconvenience (and cost) of frequent visits to the vet.
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Joanne
Sacred Scribes
Many people are curious to know what happens to our pets when they die. Just like humans, the souls of our pets do not ‘die’. Their spirits often stay with us following their ‘physical’ death, but their spirits remain to provide us with the same companionship and love as they did when alive.
As humans we are often not able to consciously perceive their presence – but on a soul level we intuitively know when our deceased cat, dog, bird etc are around us.
So what happens to our pets when they die?
Animals are alive and well on the ‘Other Side’. All the animals that exist on earth, exist on ‘The Other Side’ – without fear or aggression – and they are appropriately cherished and respected as the pure, innocent spiritual creatures that they are.
The animals on the ‘Other Side’ include every pet we’ve had in this and all of our past lives, and they watch over us with the same pure, steadfast loyalty and unconditional love that they gave during their lifetime with us. When we first arrive on the ‘Other Side’, our Spirit Guides and transcended loved ones can hardly get to us through all the animals joyfully waiting to welcome us ‘Home’.
Most of us can recall the smell or softness of our pet’s fur, and/or its distinctive sound or personality. After the death of a pet many people are convinced that they are able to see, hear or sense their pet, even if only fleetingly.
Have you ever walked into a room and got the feeling that someone was standing in the corner or sitting on a particular chair – so you turn and look and you still feel it – but there is ‘no one’ there? Sometimes a surviving family pet may stare intently at a corner of a room and wag their tail or purr, indicating that they can sense the presence of their passed over friend.
On a personal note, I have been visited by a few of my passed-over pets through the years, and have felt a sense of love and peace when they have been around. I still often catch a glimpse of my pure white cat ‘Mange’ around my garden and inside the house in her favourite spots. ‘Daisy’, a young Jack Russell terrier I had many years ago, occasionally pays a visit as well.
When an animal’s body dies they are still contactable. Their physical body may have died, but their spirit is alive and well. Once our pet has passed over they often miss the physical contact with their human/owner, the hugs and stroking, the warmth, love and closeness with their owners and so on.
They can also become quite upset when they see their human/owner upset by their grief and loss. They know of no way to comfort their owner as the owner can’t hear or see them. They can be right next to them and their human/owner doesn’t realize it.
Some passed over pets and animals take over new bodies and begin a new incarnation. When they have done this they are influenced by this new body and all it encompasses – it’s hunger and habits, its growing sensations and instincts, its sleepiness, its ‘newness’ at being so young again, and the personality of their new owners. They are called by a different name, are living in a new house with new smells, new humans to interact with and a new life in every way.
Despite entering into a new life, they are always accessible as it is their soul or spirit that is able to be contacted.
So what happens to our pets when they die and where do they go?
They can be in between bodies (or incarnations), hanging out by a rock or tree or lazing in their favourite chair. They can have new bodies and new lives. They could be your next door neighbour’s new kitten or a newborn lion in Africa, or they could even be the new puppy or kitten you introduce into the family. They may even be languishing in ‘heaven’, waiting for their owner’s arrival on the ‘Other Side’ or at the ‘Rainbow Bridge’.
When researching the topic of what happens to our pets when they die, the following anonymous passage kept presenting to me repeatedly. Therefore, (although not wishing to breach any copy laws) I feel it important to repeat it here. Unfortunately I am unable to credit the original source.
The RAINBOW BRIDGE
Just this side of heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge.
When an animal dies that has been especially close to someone here, that pet goes to the Rainbow Bridge. There are meadows and hills for all our special friends so they can run and play together. There is plenty of food, water, and sunshine and our friends are warm and comfortable.
All the animals who have been ill and old are restored to health and vigour; those who were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by.
The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing; they each miss someone very special to them, who had to be left behind.
They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and looks into the distance. His bright eyes are intent; his eager body begins to quiver. Suddenly, he begins to run from the group, flying over the green grass, his legs carrying him faster and faster.
You have been spotted, and when you and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous reunion, never to be parted again.
The happy kisses rain upon your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone from your life but never absent from your heart.
Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together…
- unknown author
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The concept of the ‘Rainbow Bridge’ is a way of expressing the everlasting bond of love between pets and humans and through research, intuition and personal experience, we are able to know what happens to our pets when they die.
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Joanne
Sacred Scribes
Essential Oils for Dogs
In the same way as they do with humans, essential oils work on both a physical and emotional level in dogs. Like humans, dogs have an olfactory system, which means that for physical ailments, application of oils through massage is effective, while for emotional problems, dogs can obtain the benefits through inhaling essential oils.
In the case of physical ailments, the essential oils are diluted into a cream or carrier oil base and massaged into the affected area. The essential oil molecules find their way into the body via the hair follicles and blood stream. In the case of emotional problems, inhalations are used and receptors are activated which help the body to relax or be stimulated, depending upon the requirement.
DOG BATHS
To make an effective dog shampoo, use a good quality shampoo base and add essential oils such as Lemongrass, Thyme, Cedarwood and Citronella. These will help deter fleas and parasites and leave your dog’s coat smelling divine.
Use approximately 30 drops of essential oil in total to 100ml of shampoo base.
SKIN IRRITATIONS
For skin irritations of all kinds, bathe the affected area with Lavender water, then apply the soothing oil blend. Apply twice daily until the irritation heals.
SOOTHING OIL RECIPE
Bathe the area first with Lavender water, and then apply twice daily.
6 drops of Lavender
2 drops of Neroli
3 drops of Chamomile
30m of carrier oil
SCRATCHES AND BATTLE WOUNDS
To bathe an area affected by scratches and battle wounds, use a combination of Thyme and Tea Tree oils diluted in water. The Thyme gives a more intense ‘anti-everything’ benefit. Because they are natural antibiotics and disinfectants, the essential oils help to clean the wound – and as with cats, if the dog licks it’s wounds afterwards it won’t harm them.
The bathing is an important part of assisting the healing, as it is difficult to cover a wound with a dressing. Once the affected area is clean Lavender oil can be applied neat to aid healing.
INFECTIONS
If your dog has an infection of any kind, think about treating the bedding where they sleep. It is as easy as adding 10 drops of Eucalyptus oil to 1 litre of warm water, giving the bedding a good scrub and soak, then allowing it to hand out to dry. Another method is to give the dog’s bedding and sleeping area a good daily spray of an anti-bacterial/anti-viral spray.
50 drops of Tea Tree oil
20 drops of Eucalyptus oil
20 drops of Thyme
90 drops of essential oil stabilizer
100 ml spray bottle of water
ARTHRITIS
Arthritis in the back legs and hips can trouble many dogs as they age. As with humans, taking essential fatty acids internally can also help dogs, as they work as an anti-inflammatory and help relieve arthritic symptoms. Dogs enjoy the taste of fish oil capsules and they are easily added into their meals.
Analgesic essential oils such as Eucalyptus, Rosemary and Ginger, and anti-inflammatory oils such as Lavender and Chamomile will give relief.
Massage into the affected area once or twice daily.
3 drops of Rosemary
2 drops of Lavender
2 drops of Eucalyptus
4 drops of Chamomile
4 drops of Ginger
30ml of carrier oil
DOG COLDS
Dogs can suffer from coughs and colds just like humans do. The best essential oils to treat them are Cajeput, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus. Add 2 drops of each essential oil to 30ml of vegetable oil and massage over the dog’s chest, two or three times per day. If you are concerned about the dog having an oily coat, use these same oils but make a spritzer instead.
2 drops of Cajeput
2 drops of Tea Tree
2 drops of Eucalyptus
30ml of vegetable carrier oil
FLEAS
Fleas can cause a great deal of grief for dogs when it comes to skin irritations. When making a flea collar for dogs you can add the oil blend to their brush and give their coat a good brushing. This can be done every day if the fleas are particularly bad
2 drops of Tea Tree
3 drops of Citronella
2 drops of Thyme
3 drops of Lavender
1 Garlic capsule
This blend can be rubbed into a leather or fabric collar as frequently as needed. Adding a garlic capsule to the dog’s food every day will also help to keep fleas at bay.
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Essential oils can easily be used at home and are of great benefit to both animals and the humans who love them.
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Joanne
Sacred Scribes
Healthy Horses - Essential Oils for Horses
In the same way as with humans, essentials oils work on both a physical and emotional level in horses. Like humans, horses have an olfactory system, which means that for physical ailments, applications of oils through massage is effective, while for emotional problems horses can obtain the benefits through inhaling essential oils.
In the case of physical ailments, the essential oils are diluted into a cream or carrier oil base and massaged into the affected area/s. The essential oil molecules find their way into the body via the hair follicles and blood stream. In the case of emotional problems, inhalants are used and receptors are activated which help the body to relax or be stimulated, depending upon the requirement.
If your horse is competing at an elite level care must be taken with the use of essential oils as some will produce positive drug test results. Essential oils such as Eucalyptus, Peppermint and Rosemary are prohibited by many show horse associations. Most essential oils will be metabolised via the urinary system within a week, although some heavier resin-based oils can take longer.
APPLICATION OF AROMATHERAPY TO HORSES
Test any blends you want to use on a small areas on the inside of the horse’s elbow before complete application. If itching or redness occurs, dilute the blend further. A horse’s skin is much more sensitive than human’s, so never apply essential oils undiluted to the skin. If your horse has a reaction to any oils bathe the area with vegetable oil or milk to reduce the irritation. Do not use water as it can increase the chance of a reaction. Use a 3% dilution, which is the same as recommended for use on adult humans. Do not be mistaken into assuming that more oil is necessary because horses are so much bigger than humans, as increasing the dosage will not make a more effective blend – in fact, all you will achieve is to increase the chance of a negative reaction.
When using aromatherapy and essential oils with horses, use common sense. Do not use essential oils on any ailments that you have not had looked at by your veterinarian. Many vets today are open to the use of complimentary therapies.
*Essential oils are best administered under the guidance of an accredited aromatherapist.
DETERMINING WHICH OILS YOUR HORSE LIKES
Just as we humans are drawn to the oils we need by our sense of smell and our emotions, so too are horses. A horse will show a preference for a particular essential oil. It will also let you know when it doesn’t like a particular oil – watch their eyes and body language. It is very easy to read what is going on by your horse’s reaction.
Ask your horse to show you which one it wants and needs.
This is best done at a quiet time of day, preferably not right before or after a feed. Open the bottle of oil and hold it in your hand about eight inches from your horse’s nostrils. Give the horse enough room to move toward or away from the oils. Watch for reactions that tell you whether the horse likes the oil or not. As you know your horse well, you will know what signals to look for.
A POSITIVE REACTION TO THE OIL
When a horse is interested in an oil it will smell the oil intently for a long time. Generally the lip will curl and the horse will follow the aroma around or try to nibble at the bottle.
Use these oils once or twice per day.
THE ‘MAYBE INTERESTED’ REACTION TO THE OIL
The horse has a sniff, checks it out, has a look around an comes back to the bottle. Their ears might be forward and their nostrils slightly flared, but they are not totally focused on the oil. Use these oils once per day.
A NEGATIVE REACTION TO THE OIL
The ‘I’m not interested’ look is when the horse turns away from the aroma and does not want to play. Do NOT use this oil at this time.
Horses will generally need oils for between one and two weeks. You will be able to judge from their reactions when they are no longer needed.
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It is a challenge to give specific recipes for horses. Whether looking to address a physical or emotional challenge, it is recommended that you follow the same guidelines used as for creating blends for humans.
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Joanne
Sacred Scribes
